But if you’ve never ridden before, there are some things you should know before you decide to throw a leg over:
* Motorcycles (and scooters) take more skill and involvement to operate than a car –
You need to be able to balance and (in the case of motorcycles) shift gears and work a clutch. And brake. Without consciously thinking about it.
Then, there’s cornering.
A two-wheeled (single track) vehicle turns by a combination of steering and leaning. A car turns by steering only. You lean the bike by shifting your weight to the inside of the corner, working with the machine so that the two of you are one unit. Leaning is a high-order skill that takes time to acquire – and also requires a higher degree of physical fitness (and coordination) than driving does.
And you also have to learn how to stop.
In a car, depressing the brake pedal automatically engages all four brakes simultaneously and in the appropriate proportion. On a bike, the front and rear brakes are (usually) controlled individually – and separately. (A few late-model bikes have linked brakes as well as ABS). The rider must learn to apply the front and rear brakes in the right proportion via manual control of the levers, one for the front brake, the other for the rear. Too much rear brake and the back wheel will lock up (if the bike doesn’t have ABS – and most don’t) and cause the bike to skid. Too much front brake, meanwhile, and you might find yourself flying over the handlebars.
It takes time and experience to master the different handling techniques necessary to safely operate a bike (or scooter), which is why in most states, a separate “M” endorsement on your driver’s license is necessary to legally operate a motorcycle on public roads. Typically, you must pass a separate knowledge and skills test above and beyond the test required to get a driver’s license. New riders usually must also first obtain a Learner’s Permit that limits their riding to daytime hours for a set period of time, typically a couple of months. You may or may not need to get an “M” endorsement if you plan to ride a scooter or moped only; it typically depends on the engine size (and top speed capability) of the scooter or moped. As a rule, if it can go faster than about 35 mph, you will probably need to get the “M” endorsement. Check with your state DMV to be sure.
If you’ve never ridden before, I strongly recommend taking the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s new rider course. These are held all over the country, in or near most major cities – usually on a weekend. MSF provides the bike (usually a small, light beginner bike such as a Honda Rebel 250 or similar) and the basic gear (helmet, etc.) so you can check it out without making a major commitment. The MSF course will teach you all the basics in a safe, off-street environment such as a large parking lot. See here for more details.
* Motorcycles and scooters are inherently much more dangerous than cars as far as being able to protect you in the event of a crash –
Safe riding practices and skilled riding can lower the chances you’ll be the cause of a wreck, but you can’t control other drivers (who are often oblivious to motorcycles and scooters) or random things like an animal suddenly running in front of you .
If you ride a motorcycle or scooter, you should invest in protective riding gear, including a jacket with armored inserts, gloves and boots – in addition to a helmet (which is mandatory in most states).
* Most motorcycles and scooters have limited cargo capacity, even big cruising/touring bikes –
* Motorcycles and scooters are more vulnerable to (and less adept in) bad weather than cars –
They are especially vulnerable to dangerous skids/loss of control on wet/slick roads. A car has four contact patches and if it hits some ice, it may slide. But a bike has only two (and much smaller) contact patches and if it hits some ice, it is much more likely to just topple over. Sand and gravel on the road are also unique threats to bikes and scooters that cars generally don’t have to worry about.
* Bikes and scooters generally don’t last as long as cars –
Assuming decent treatment, most any late model car or truck can be counted on to go 150,000 miles or more before needing major engine work. A bike will typically be tired by 50,000 miles. And bikes often require more frequent maintenance, including things like chain cleaning/oiling/tightening and valve adjustments, which may be be necessary as frequently as once every 10,000 miles or so. Bike tires almost always wear out much faster (on some high-performance sport bikes, in as little as three or four thousand miles or even less) because the contact patch is smaller (and so wears faster) and because of softer compounds (in the case of performance tires).
On the upside, riding a motorcycle or scooter is fun – and with gas mileage that’s typically between 45 and 60 mpg (depending on the type of bike/scooter) it’s inexpensive fun, too.
Probably the smartest option, if saving money is the goal, is to buy the bike or scooter and use it when the weather’s nice and you don’t need to carry either people or stuff – keeping your car as back-up for rainy days, winter driving and when you do need to carry people or stuff.
This way, you cut down the mileage you put on your car, extending its useful life and decreasing your maintenance while also lowering your annual fuel costs considerably.
That’s having your cake – and eating it, too!
Throw it in the Woods?