Sometimes, it’s the part you thought would be easiest to find that turns out to be the hardest to find. If you can find it, at all. And – sometimes – the reason why only becomes obvious once you discover that you can’t find what you’re looking for.
I had no trouble at all locating all the parts – including the small parts – I needed to complete the conversion of my ’76 Pontiac Trans-Am from factory automatic to manual. I even found a correct (original, new old stock) Hurst shifter, including the chrome-plated Hurst shifter rod and the “Pontiac” gear shift knob that would have been exactly what my car would have left the Norwood, Ohio assembly line with back in ’76 if it had been built as a factory four-speed car.
I found the Z bar and the brackets for the clutch linkage. I found a set of brand-new pedals, exact duplicates of the originals. I even found the correct chrome trim for the pedal rubber. There was no problem finding the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. I didn’t even have to scour the boneyards for a bellhousing – the aluminum casting that fits over the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and bolts to the back of the engine – even though the engine in my Trans Am hasn’t been made in 50 years. (Unlike say the Chevy small block V8, which you can still buy new from GM.)
I bought a rebuilt Borg Warner Super T10 four speed transmission – identical to the one my car would have come with if it had come with a manual from the factory.
Everything mechanical is now as it would have been. The result being what I had wanted, that being to replicate what my car would have been if it had been me who ordered it back in ’76. Because an automatic Trans-Am is something not quite right.
But one thing’s still missing – and may be, for some time to come.
It’s not mechanical. It’s cosmetic. Aye, there’s the rub!
I never gave much thought to the center console that sits between the front seats. My car originally came with one, as did most second generation Trans-Ams, because the TA was more loaded with extras than the Formula Firebird, which people who just wanted the TA’s drivetrain – for the performance – bought. The TA was the fanciest Firebird and most came pretty loaded with extras. Power windows, for instance.
If you wanted the optional power windows – which my car has – then your car came with a console, which was mandatory with the power windows. And – of course – if your car was equipped with an automatic, then you got the console – because the automatic came with a floor-mounted gear selector.
Manual-equipped cars could be ordered with a console, but some were not. The more relevant thing is most Trans-Ams – especially after 1974 – were automatic cars. Put another way, the manual console is rare because manual transmission Trans-Ams are rare. That alone means finding an original manual console that’s still in showroom-new or very close to that condition (as the rest of my car’s interior is) is much harder than finding a similar condition automatic console. GM made hundreds of thousands of them – for the Firebird and the same-era Camaro – but far fewer of the manual console, which has a different opening up front for the Hurst four speed shift lever.
Without a center console, a TA’s interior looks like there’s something missing – and now mine looks like that, too. The power window switch (and wiring harness) flops around on the driveshaft tunnel and you can see where I cut the carpet to cut the hole for the shifter. I had assumed I’d have a new reproduction manual console installed by now because I had briefly checked around before starting the project and saw they were available.
They are available.
The problem is they are not the same. They look the same – until you look closely. They are the same shape, for the most part. But they are hard painted plastic. The originals were covered in something that’s not quite leather – it’s closer to vinyl – but gives the impression it might be. It’s softer than hard plastic and the point is you can tell the difference. This matters a lot to people for whom originality matters, which it does to me. The rest of my TA’s interior is original and in extremely nice condition. Installing a cheesy-looking aftermarket reproduction console would stand out like wearings sneakers with a tux.
I want the real deal.
The trouble is the real deal’s proving very difficult to find – and the available repros are cheesy.
But, why are they cheesy?
I think I know why. Certain original cosmetic parts for classic cars were made using specific processes that cannot be easily or economically replicated today, by aftermarket suppliers. It is one thing to remake a hard plastic trim plate – as for instance the trim plate surrounding the TA’s original AM/FM Delco stereo, which I recently put back in the car. It is another thing to reproduce the soft/textured feel of an original GM center console from the ’70s. I think the situation is analogous to the Honeycomb wheels that Pontiac offered back when my TA was new (1976 was the last year for these wheels). Many people do not realize these wheels aren’t aluminum – because they look like they are. In fact, they are steel. Pontiac developed a process called Polycasting to create these wheels. The cool-looking Honeycomb centers are actually made of a urethane composite material and serve no structural purpose.
No one reproduces these wheels.
You can get reproduction alloy wheels that sort of look like them, but which aren’t them. The difference is immediately obvious.If you need a set of correct Honeycomb wheels, you’ll have to find a set of original ones, which is not easy since they haven’t been made for 50 years. Either good used ones that can be refurbished or New Old Stock (NOS) which means an original, unused replacement part that has been sitting on a shelf somewhere for all these years. 
It’s a similar scene with my console – the one I don’t have yet. I’ll be visiting eBay daily and hoping that one day, one will pop up for sale. I found an NOS Hurst shifter for my car that someone had that had been sitting in its box for the past 50 years – so maybe lightning will strike again. There’s also the Trans Am Nationals – and the big parts swap meet up in Carlisle, PA. Somewhere, my eventual manual console waits for me to find it.
Meanwhile, console myself with the sounds of the Super T10’s gear whine!
. . .
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Welcome to my world. As a 1987 T-Bird owner, it’s incredibly hard to find certain cosmetic parts (and even important ones, like headlights and taillights). I’ll be bringing mine to Carlisle this year with checkbook in hand but but I don’t have high hopes for finding much at the swap meet. You can find foxbody Mustang parts all day long but foxbody T-Bird parts? Good luck!
This is one of the reasons I like older stuff, the fabrication on rare parts is simpler. Im going to guess the repop is probably something like vacuum formed ABS, not awful but definitely not original.
If a good or restorable original doesn’t show up, and if you’re willing to go the distance, you could fab one better than original.
Form up a buck about 1% undersized, then make one out of fiberglass.
Adding the vinyl to get the finish right is likely a combination of heat and glue, probably with some thin foam padding. The forces needed to form vinyl well make it really unlikely to succeed on a repop ABS console. But a nice fiberglass part is solider, quieter, and a lot easier to stretch heated vinyl over.
This is a lot of work, if you hire it done you’re looking at thousands of fedbux. Or it can be a pleasant project you can indulge over a few weeks.
Good luck.
Thanks, Ernie!
I am pretty confident that – somewhere – someone has what I need. It’ll take time, but I am persistent.
Eric, ol pal, I’m going to search and find it first, then sell it to you at double the price!
Hi Philo,
I suppose I’ll have to pay the piper, too!
As an aside – and a hope-filled shot in the dark: I am in possession of a mint condition original GM console for an automatic car, along with an equally mint original GM auto shift assembly and trim. I would love to swap if there’s anyone out there who needs an extremely nice original console for an automatic car who has a similar condition manual console… I’ll also throw in an original Pontiac 4BBl intake!
The good thing is… whatever you have to pay for the manual console (when you find it) can be offset somewhat by selling your OE parts you have leftover.
Me, I can’t sell anything. What if I might need it someday!
My rare light blue manual console is in very good shape, even with the authentic 70’s cigarette burns still intact.
As Bill Clinton said, “Ah feel yer pain.” I have a 36-year old motorcycle that got busted up in a love affair with a deer. it runs great but Japanese plastics are VERY difficult to find for something that old (at a reasonable price, anyway).
My observation is that it is easier to keep ancient engines running than to restore ancient trim, upholstery, etc.
This is the thing with those old GM parts – if I remember (my Firebird went away 1982) those consoles are “soft touch” vinyl covered. I have no idea how they got that done, there are no seams so somehow molded onto the plastic structure underneath, but with a thin cushy layer under the vinyl you see and touch.
I agree, the normal interior shops won’t be duplicating that but would be the usual aftermarket foam and vinyl or leather cover. May look nice but just won’t be the same as OEM.
This is why I always liked GM interiors. By the mid seventies the MOPAR Cudas and Challengers had hard plastic interiors. To me just looked and felt cheap.
Tangentially related to classic vehicles — Caterham plans to increase exports of its Caterham Seven to the US. Here are the US fedgov hoops that have to be jumped through:
‘Unusually, but as always with Caterham, new cars are delivered without engines to the American dealers who place the orders. The machines are shipped either unassembled in flat packs or partly assembled to be completed by the dealer, an approved shop or, should one be so inclined, the new owner, a task made possible with dexterity and only moderate mechanical skill.
‘Under a 2022 law, up to 325 such “replicas” may be exported annually to the United States by their maker, though the cars must employ engines that meet federal and California emissions standards.’ — NYT
https://tinyurl.com/3rtn7uh7
So in effect, the Caterham is grandfathered in, in an arbitrary limited quantity of 325 per year. Its cost ($70,000 and up) reflects the need for one-by-one hand assembly.
In the meantime, thank goodness Trumpstein imported all those cute little kei trucks for us! /sarc
Eric,
If you find a part worth restoring, there is only place on the planet I would get my dash and console work done from which is *Just Dashes* in LA. They did my Datsun 2000 dash and console and they are stunning. (Downside: you ship and wait in the cue, but it is worth it.)
https://www.justdashes.com/pontiac/trans-am/
My son in law deals with this for his German army G wagon soft top and the Defender 110.
The G needs several of the side trim pieces replaced. Aftermarket is not near as good as the OEM. There is a specialist repro group working on OEM equivalents not China, but they will be spendy as getting the correct plastics and metal backing ain’t cheap for limited production. His other problem, his G is a two door short wheelbase not common.
He found possibly the last OEM set of six pieces in Turkey. $450 plus $120 shipping he snapped it up after some back and forth plus detailed pics from the seller.
Maybe some sultan has a wrecked ‘Bird with a manual shift console – time to go search world wide?
Eric,
All car guys know the frustrating yet thrilling hunt for a rare part. It will turn up. Good sources so far, but consider the groups on Facebook and marketplace. Also set up a Google Alert for your search term and it’ll save you having to search. I ran your query though Gemini quickly and came up with this- maybe it’s helpful:
“ Finding a specific original center console for a 1976 Trans Am with both a manual 4-speed setup and power windows can be a challenge, as most reproduction units come “blank” or set up for standard manual configurations. To get an exact original or a perfectly functional equivalent, you have a few options:
1. Professional Restoration & Specialized Vendors
Some vendors specialize in F-body interiors and offer services to cut consoles specifically for power window switches or provide original refurbished units.
• Fbodywarehouse: They are highly recommended for this specific need. They offer 1970–1981 Trans Am center consoles and specifically state they can cut out the holes for your power window switches and re-dye the unit to match your factory interior color.
• Restore a Muscle Car (RAMC): They often stock original parts and high-quality “New Old Stock” (NOS) or refurbished items. They currently list manual transmission console assemblies and are worth contacting for power-window-specific inventory.
2. Original (Used) Market
For a true 1976 original part, you will likely need to browse secondary markets.
• eBay Motors: Look for “1970-1981 Firebird Trans Am OEM Center Console.” You may find a console from a “donor” car that already has the power window switch cutouts. Even if the console is for an automatic, the shell is often the same, and you can swap in the 4-speed shift tunnel and bezel.
• Pontiac-Specific Forums: Check the classified sections of Trans Am Country, Pontiac Zone, or the Pontiac Trans Am Forum. Members often sell original “parts car” interiors that include the factory-cut power window consoles.
3. Reproduction Units (Manual Config)
If you cannot find a used original, you can buy a high-quality reproduction shell and modify it.
• Classic Industries / Firebird Central: They carry the 1970–1979 Manual Transmission Console Housing (Part #10009289R or CON-2001).
• Note: Most of these reproductions do not come with pre-cut power window holes. However, the underside of the console usually has “scribed” lines or dimples indicating where the factory power window switches should be cut, making it easier to DIY or have a shop do it accurately.
Key Parts Needed for the 4-Speed Conversion
If you find a bare console shell, ensure you also acquire these specific 4-speed components:
• Manual Shift Tunnel/Bezel: This is the plastic piece that attaches to the console to accommodate the shifter.
• Shift Boot and Retainer Plate: Essential for sealing the shifter area.
• Power Window Switch Retainer: If you are cutting a blank console, you will need the metal or plastic clips that hold the switches in place.
Recommendation: Contact Fbodywarehouse first. Since they offer the specific service of cutting for power windows and color-matching, it is the most reliable way to get a “factory-look” console without the hunt for a rare used survivor part.”
Good luck!
Thanks, Lord James!
I am already looking into some of the above!
My dad and I started a restoration of a 1955 Plymouth Savoy when I was still in high school. It progressed slowly but we were dedicated to authenticity. It was ironic that finish an old car back to it’s original glory required the modernity of eBay where we finally found a year-correct oil bath air filter with it’s original, only slightly faded paint with that glorious V8 logo right on front. That was almost 20 years after we started it.
Your journey is relatively easy because a good upholstery shop could probably make what you need. But I think anyone who’s done a resto will understand that isn’t the point. It might be an interim solution but you will never stop kicking around websites, estate sales and junk yards until you find the real deal.
It’s out there for you to find and the search is part of the fun. It’s actually kind of a let down when you do finish. Dad just recently decided to sell the car because he didn’t have anything to do after retirement. He’s starting the next project, a Corvair that his own father parked when the engine fell out driving over railroad tracks in 1972. This one he’s not going for authenticity but rather something more interesting, like doing autocross with it
Racing a Corvair seems like the most anti-Nader thing possible and that makes me happy.
The Yenko Stingers are quite inspiring at the vintage racing events. Non-Yenko, although not as fast, would be a blast regardless.
If you can’t find it at Carlisle, you will likely find some people there who can find it for you
I second Mark’s idea – have an upholstery shop cover the console in vinyl — or real leather.
Another possibility — modify the opening of an automatic console with minor surgery. To replace the worn-out, gapped handbrake console seal in my first-gen RAV4, I adapted a rubber boot from a Ford Focus. It’s actually much better and quieter than the flimsy OEM material.
[reply to Mark in BC at the bottom]
Hi Jim,
Yes, but what I am after is a factory appearance. My original (automatic) console is nearly perfect/show quality even though it is 50 years old. That is what I am looking for, just in manual form.
Does the underside of the piece feel the same or is it smooth? The way you’re describing it, sounds like there’s a paint/coating that was applied to the plastic to get that feel. Check with 3M or PPG dealers. Maybe it’s something that you can get in a rattle can.
Then there’s always Carlisle. But you’ll probably pay top dollar or have some restoration work to do.
Hi RK,
Yup. The underside is shiny black plastic – and there are rattle can coatings available. But, first, I have to find an undamaged original console. I’d much prefer an NOS console, but that may not be possible…
I feel your pain Eric. I’ve never had any luck with reproduction weatherstripping for my Chevy’s, it’s a lot harder than the originals so you still have to slam the door hard even though he fiddled with door gaps, trimmed the backside and lubricated the rubber. On the other car the window was adjusted so as not to go all the way up as it is almost impossible to shut the doors otherwise.
The aftermarket hood needed a bunch of work to fit also, lots of panel gap adjustment and as my body man said the panel gap is not acceptable but as I wanted a standard hood, you take what you can find.
I’m been told I complain too much but Jiminy Cricket how f*cking hard is it too build replacement parts that fit and work the way they’re supposed to? I read articles detailing homemade MANPADs and cruise missiles but you can’t find a part that fits your vintage car properly even though they’ve been built in a multi million dollar factory?
Correct on the “like fit and finish” Chinesium hoods and panels pushed by insurance. They had this implemented here in WA years ago. Want collision repair using only OEM, you’ll cough up the difference if the car is older than two years.
The China hood on the 91 Silverado is “ok” unless you really look close. The worst? Open the hood after it rains get a face full of water since the underneath crimp and spots welds/drain hole don’t match OEM.
“ I’m been told I complain too much but Jiminy Cricket how f*cking hard is it too build replacement parts that fit and work the way they’re supposed to? ”
Classic ignorant Murican’ comments.
You have no idea what it actually takes to produce anything and make a profit on niche vintage car parts.
If it’s so easy why don’t you go into business and do it right?
Short of taking a drive down to Charlotte Motor Speedway today and going to AutoFair you might want to see if there is an upholstery shop in Roanoke that could professionally cover the console in vinyl.
https://www.charlotte-autofair.com/
Google sez, 2h 37min to CMS. Pick up 77 in Galax and head south. Take 485 inner north of Charlotte to 85 north, it’s the first exit, Bruton Smith Blvd.
Get going…chop chop..