I think I am about half-way there! As you can see – well, hopefully you can – I have installed the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. The Z bar is also installed. I have the bellhousing on order. Once it gets here – and I get it installed – the next thing (before the last thing) is lowering the car so I can do the interior mods: These include installing the new pedals and – the big thing – cutting the hole in the driveshaft tunnel for the manual shifter to poke through.
This is – hopefully – not going to be particularly difficult. The correct “hump” for the manual shifter boot that mounts on top of the tunnel is available and so is a template to mount it precisely where it’s supposed to go. I also have to remove the stock automatic gear selector stuff that’s still on the console, but that ought to be easy, too.
Once all that’s done, it’s just a matter of installing the Super T10 and reconnecting the driveshaft, etc. I’m hoping to be able to get this all done by March-ish.
More soon!
. . .
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I hope everything goes smooth for you! Also hope your garage is heated… I can’t work on cars in the cold.
When I bought my Firebird, someone had already converted it from auto to 4 speed manual. They did a damn good job.
https://ibb.co/gZnvw2fc
The pedal installation is the most miserable part of the job for me. Even with the seats out, under dash work is unpleasant and painful.
Also (and I’m guessing it doesn’t matter) but some of the early 70s GM stuff had an interlock cable system from the ignition lock to the shifter, if you were going for originality it might be a thing. I ran into it long ago on a 70(?) Nova with a floor shift 3 speed- ended up removing it because it really messed with shifter feel/crispness.
Hi Ernie,
Yup!
I have done pedals before, so I know what I’m in for. Removing the driver’s seat hugely helps. It allows you to roll over on your back and look up at what you’re trying to get at. On the interlock: Yup. The stock setup rolls the collar on the steering column into lock when you put the trans in reverse. I am going to do that also – but probably later as it’s not a high priority item. Same as regards the back-up lights.
Looking good. It never goes as fast as you think it should. Taking your time, measure twice/cut once, you will have the desired results.
Question. Is the starter the same? Does the manual flywheel have the same number of teeth as the auto? Just curious.
Thanks, Mark!
I am not sure about the starter – but I suspect I will have to get a new one. I need to look into that. Though I will be able to clutch start the thing one I’m done!
Kind of surprised there isn’t a cutout for a manual (with a removable plate over it).
Every automatic slush box that gets retired to make way for a manual transmission makes this a better world!
Can’t be a gearhead without gears …
cutting the hole in the driveshaft tunnel for the manual shifter to poke through.
This is the part that makes me wince. Only get 1 shot.
Nah. Lots of spare sheet metal available and quality metal work can easily reverse this if Eric decided.
Morning, Auto!
Yup. I could easily go back to the way it was and it would be hard to tell. It’s going to be hard to tell when I’m done. I’m using factory/stock four speed parts and the end result will look and function just like a factory four speed car. That’s the goal of this mission, anyhow!
Hi Dan,
It’s not to worry! The “hump” that manual cars came with from the factory is available and you basically just replicate the factory manual setup. Automatic cars have the small round hole for the gear selector cable, as you can sort-of see in my low-rent video. A slightly larger hole is offset to left-forward of that in manual equipped cars and the “hump”is tack welded on top, with body sealer to cover the joint. The carpet/console cover the whole works once the job’s done. Here’s a pic of what it looks like when finished: https://cdn.dealeraccelerate.com/volo/1/18270/513307/790×1024/1976-pontiac-trans-am