Eureka!

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Did you know that “eureka” translates as I have found it! in Greek? Well, eureka – I have found it! That three-connector toggle switch that controls the On/Off electric rear defroster my ’76 Trans-Am has, that hasn’t worked in 30 years because the original switch crapped out back in the ’90s sometime and because finding a working replacement switch has proved to be something like getting at the truth about the Epstein stuff.

If you caught my earlier article about this, you’ll already know why, but to recap:

There was what they call a running change sometime during the ’76 model year production run to the electric rear defroster system that was available optionally in the Firebird line. The engineers apparently decided that a simple On-Off toggle switch would be improved with a timer built into the circuit that automatically turned off the defroster after about 10 minutes. Both the switch itself and the wiring harness were changed – though you wouldn’t know this unless you disassembled the dash – to get at the backside of the switch and see the difference. The replacement switch has four rather than three connectors that plug into a different harness with (naturally) four rather than three slots for the prongs to go into. This was unbeknownst to me when I decided to get the defroster (and the cigarette lighter that mounts close to the toggle for the defroster) working again, by buying a new replacement switch – because the outward appearance of the switch used not just in ’76 but also ’77, ’78, ’79, ’80 and ’81 (last year for the second generation Firebird) is the same. So I assumed (look out! – as OJ used to say) that all the aftermarket replacement switches are also the same.

It was a wrong assumption.

The available aftermarket replacement switches are all of the post-sometime-during-the-1976-model-year-running change, with the four connectors on the back that plug into a four-slot wiring harness. I bought one of these and found that out. I also tried to wire it up to work, using jumper wires from the four-connector switch to my original three-slot harness. No joy. The two are not compatible. And a new replacement for the original early ’76 three-connector switch isn’t available. No one makes ’em. Probably because electric rear defrost was only first offered in ’75 and it is a rare option – until you get to circa ’77 and up, when the Firebird had become more mainstream and more of a cruiser than a bruiser.

There are probably not many people who own a ’75 or ’76 Firebird with the electric (grid type) defroster and even fewer who need a replacement toggle switch – relative to the many more people who own a ’77-’81 Firebird with the electric rear defroster, which by then was a much more popular option. Not surprisingly, the aftermarket caters to the market. They can’t be faulted for this. But that leaves the small handful of us who need that three-connector toggle switch in a pinch.

There are restoration services that can restore an original switch (both functionally and cosmetically) but the thing about that is, you’ve got to have the original switch for them to restore. I don’t anymore – because I sent my original via the mail to a restoration shop for restoring and it got lost in the mail. I learned a lesson about not paying extra for signature-required delivery. The long and short is I had no old switch to restore – and no one sells new replacements anymore.

That meant lurking like a snapping turtle at the bottom of the pond for a new old stock (NOS) switch to float by my open jaws – so to speak – so I could snap it up. A NOS part is an original factory part that was never used and is (usually) still in the original box. NOS parts are hugely esteemed by old car people because they’re original rather than reproduction and so look and function exactly like the originals. They are also brand-new, even though old – so no worries about the part not working. Assuming it’s not a part with rubber or other components that get brittle and so on over time.

The aftermarket parts often don’t fit exactly and sometimes are of poorer quality than the original part. And when there is no aftermarket part available, the only option you’ve got is a still-working used part – good luck with that, after 50 years (as in the case of my ’76 Trans-Am) or a NOS part.

Also good luck with that. Because such parts are by definition rare and hotly wanted by those who need them. So the price is usually high and you’d better be prepared to pay it, if you want the part. So that’s what I did when I found the NOS switch for my ’76. New in the box, still – after 50 years of sitting on a shelf. The seller wanted four times-plus the cost of the widely available incorrect (for my car) aftermarket replacement but I was able to negotiate a more viable (for me) selling price.

It is now on its way – along with the parts I need to get the old cigarette lighter working again! That leaves just one last thing to get the old ‘Bird in 100 percent fully operational condition again. That thing being the AC. There is a slow leak in one of the factory original hoses. I’ll need a new hose and – thank God – there is a local shop that makes custom hoses. I just need to bring them my original to serve as a template. The thing that’s not going to come cheap is the Freon. Yes, the Freon. I could have the system recharged with the replacement/politically correct 134a refrigerant but that wouldn’t be politically incorrect. Nor would it be correct – as that’s what the car had when it was new.

Nor would it turn the TA’s interior into a place where you could hang meat. If you have ever owned an old GM car with a factory Harrison AC system pumping Freon via the action of one of those huge compressors they used to use, you will know what I mean.

Then, at last, everything will be right again.

Well, assuming I can find a correct replacement manual center console . . .

. . .

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16 COMMENTS

    • Hi Eric,

      Maybe; but (summoning Ricardo Montalban) it is Freon that best answers my demands. I want the real/politically incorrect thing!

  1. It’s a shame you are 2000 miles from me, I have 6 kegs of R12 and a couple manifolds to install. Unfortunately it’s no longer a free country, I wouldn’t dare ship you one and I don’t/can’t really advertise this much for sale.

    Good job on the switch, keeping an eye open for a console.

  2. Propane cools better than r12, but the decision to use r12 over Propane is quite clear. R134a cools worse but that was a scam and r12 was non toxic r134a if exposed to flame creates a deadly gas. Now there’s 1234yf which cools worse and is flammable, don’t know exactly why they switched, but its a scam and we will not be buying the machine for it, and if it’s going to be flammable why not use Propane

    • Indeed, Mei –

      Time gives perspective. I am old enough to remember Freon AC systems in cars and to have owned cars so equipped. The cold was colder – and the cans cost about a $1, once – if you can imagine that. Then we were told the use of Freon in AC systems was causing a “hole” to form in the ozone layer and so it had to be phased out in favor of a new, less efficient (and more expensive) refrigerant. Now Freon is extremely expensive – last time I checked it was about $100 for a can equivalent. But – godammit – I have got to have it. For the same reason I will not abide HFC in lieu of sugar. I want the real thing.

      • Eric, a few years ago, before I had my home’s HVAC system replaced, I was told that R-22, the Freon used for home HVAC systems, was about $1,000 for a small bottle of the stuff. Thanks to regulatory BS, I had no choice but to replace my HVAC system. Since I got it replaced 4-5 years ago, I’ve since found out that the refrigerant has been CHANGED AGAIN! IOW, if you can get Freon, get as much as you can now, before the price goes up even more. Freon has been outlawed, so no more is being made, which means prices will increase even more.

  3. “ The available aftermarket replacement switches are all of the post-sometime-during-the-1976-model-year-running change.”

    Your terminology is off.

    In automotive assembly plant a running change is when parts can come into the line in an uncoordinated manner. Old parts get used up, new parts come in whenever and the two can be used interchangeably.

    A coordinated change is when multiple parts have to change at the same time like your switch and wiring harness + the new rear timer. These changes have to all occur at the same time to avoid a no-build condition where the parts don’t match.

    Coordinated changes usually happen at discrete points in the model year like holiday breaks or summer tooling changeover.

    The reason for them change to a timer is because the rear defrost grid draws a lot of current. Your T/A probably has the 80A alternator and a rear defrost that is left on all the time (via a on/off) switch would be drawing somewhere between 10-20A continuously whenever the car is on. Worst case that is almost 25% of the alternator load for just the rear defrost. Changing to the timer allows for better charging and load management.

    • Good points all, Plant Rat – thanks for pointing them out!

      You’re right. My car does have the 80 amp alternator. And you’re right (again) that it was a coordinated (systemic) change that took place, which is why I could not wire up the four connector switch to the existing harness. Anyone out there need the four-connector switch, by the way? I’m happy to mail it out to anyone who does for their favorite price (free)!

      • I don’t “need” it as such, but an extra lying around is not a bad idea, after reading your restoration challenges. If you can’t find someone who is desperate for it, I’ll take it. Looks like they are +/- $70 new. Name your price + shipping!

  4. Ha! What you call a *running change* is, in my office (factory) what we call an “Unincorporated ECN” (engineering change notice) Yeah, they’re fun to come across aren’t they?

  5. I have indeed owned an old GM car with a factory Harrison AC system pumping Freon via the action of one of those huge compressors they used to use.

    My 1968 Oldsmobile Delta 88’s AC was fully intact. And when that nearly one foot long compressor emblazoned with “Frigidaire” kicked on, it made that Rocket 455 shudder for just a brief moment—but still, you could enjoy air cooled to near deep space temperatures while that Rocket launches you from a dead stop into near earth orbit, to wax poetic about it.

    • The nice thing bout those old GM R12 systems it would easily cool a station wagon, quickly. We got a rental Buick in SoCal back in the mid 90s, early R134a and it wouldn’t easily cool a sedan on a 90 degree day. Boy was I pissed “this is our future?”
      My 70 Firebird you’d have icicles if left on MAX.

      I converted the 91 truck to 134a about 12 years ago with an aftermarket kit including the compressor. Works great but I’m only cooling a two door standard cab. Now in the Soviet of Washington personal purchase of 134a is banned with thousands in fines for sellers here. Unfortunately it leaks slightly so I have to do a top off every spring. I won’t incriminate myself on how this gets done.

      This nauseating story full of the usual climate lies but this is how Gov rolls in WA:

      https://www.krem.com/article/news/local/washington/washington-ecology-fines-amazon-walmart-illegally-selling-climate-polluting-products/293-a392c65a-0cd3-4919-a120-f4d7adb08b4b

      PS: can still purchase the DIY sized cans in Oregon (!) and Idaho.

      • Amen, Sparkey!

        PS: If your car has the electric rear defroster and you’d like a brand-new toggle for it, let me know and I will send it over….

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