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Toggle Switch Troubles

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If you own an old car you’ll be familiar with the tale I’m about to tell – and if you’re thinking about buying an old car, it’s a tale you’ll want to hear so you’re aware of some of the fun you’ll be signing up for!

I have a 1976 Pontiac Trans-Am, as many already know. There is something else to know, about this particular year Trans-Am. While it is generally similar to all second generation (1970-1981) Trans Ams, there are year-to-year differences. Sometimes, a particular year is a unique year in that there are some parts that were only used for one year. In my car’s case, examples include the front grille, which is a one-year-only grille. That means if you ever need a new/replacement grille (for this particular year Trans-Am) you will have fun on your hands trying to find them (there are actually two, so plural).

There are also some much subtler differences that you may not discover until you have to dig into the car’s guts. This is what I discovered when I wanted to replace the car’s electric rear defroster toggle switch. I went ahead and ordered a new replacement switch – advertised as an exact reproduction of the original. This turned out to be sort-of true. It is an exact replacement – for ’77-81 Firebirds. But it isn’t for older models like my ’76. There was a change made sometime during the production run. My switch – which looks the same when installed as the later (’77-81) switch has three prong connectors on the backside that plug into the factory harness for the electric rear defroster. But the new replacement plug has four prongs – and not only that, they are arranged differently. It is not “plug and play.”

It is try to figure it out. Enter the fun!

That’s what I am trying to do right now. Specifically, I am trying to determine whether the new replacement switch can be made to work with the original ’76 wiring harness, by using jumper wires to connect the 12V ignition-on “hot” lead, the ground and the lead that goes to the rear defroster grid to the new switch. I do not know whether this is possible because I do not know – have not yet been able to determine – whether the switch is the same internally. It probably isn’t. I have already found out that, at some point mid-1976/early 1977, Pontiac added a timer to the circuit. My car’s toggle is On/Off. The revised design automatically shuts off the current after about ten minutes.

Now, I don’t especially care if the rear defroster actually works because my TA isn’t going out in the snow. It hasn’t gotten wet in more than 30 years (which is why it isn’t rusty). But I would like the little green light to come on when I wiggle the toggle, as it should if the defroster were working. Whether this is possible is a thing I have to figure out.

You may be wondering – what happened to my original toggle switch? The one with the three prongs that fit into the three plug harness? Well, here’s another thing you may encounter if you ever get into old cars. I sent my original switch to a “restoration” shop that advertised it could fix the switch functionally and restore its appearance cosmetically. So I boxed it up and sent it to them. They say they never got it. So, it’s gone. I do not blame the shop; I blame me for being too cheap to send it secured delivery, with signature required and so on. Never fail to do this when sending out an original part you have, especially when it’s one you think you can afford to lose because you think there’s a readily available aftermarket replacement.

Speaking of which . . .

I still haven’t found a center console for my Trans-Am. A manual center console. I assumed these would be super easy to find because Pontiac built hundreds of thousands of Trans-Ams rom 1970-1981 and even though most came with automatics, if even a third came with manuals – which is probably about right – there ought to be a lot of original consoles around. Right? Even more so because the same-era Chevy Camaro used the same console. I figured it’d be the easiest part of converting my ’76 from factory automatic to factory manual. It is turning out to be the hardest part.

It was easy finding all the mechanical parts, such as the Z bar and mounting brackets, the bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate. It was even fairly easy to find a correct/factory GM Hust shifter with all the linkage and the “Pontiac” shifter knob to top it all off. But the center console has proved – so far – to be as hard to suss out as the Epstein client list. There is a reproduction available. But it is an obvious reproduction – hard plastic, while the original was covered with a soft, almost leather-like material that is (apparently) much too expensive for the aftermarket to reproduce. Meanwhile, everyone who has a good original manual console wants to keep it.

I have been trying to find one for two-plus months now. It is a lot of fun!

It is all part of the fun of owning an old car. I recommend it highly.

. . .

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7 COMMENTS

  1. There’s nothing as expensive as a cheap (American/European/Asian) performance/sporty car that needs “a little work” to run like new again!!!

    Kinda like the Craigslist “engine rebuild,” which mostly consists of spray painting the valve covers and engine air cleaner cover!!!

    YMMV….

  2. Here’s what I found looking quickly at online schematics.

    1976 – 3 wire switch directly controls the defrost as you stated. A basic on-off switch.

    Later 4 wire is a momentary contact switch that controls a separate timer relay circuit. Whether that circuit is built into the switch or is truly separate isn’t easy to tell from the free wiring diagrams online.

    A multimeter can quickly confirm what your 4 pole switch really is and whether my quick online research is correct. Likewise a quick bench test of the 4 pole switch will all tell you how it works.

    The free online wiring information sucks vs. other cars I regularly work on. You really should have access to good factory wiring diagrams and a multimeter if you want to go down this path of trying to make the 4 pole work with your car without risking your wiring.

    • Thanks, BID!

      I think I am just going to install the replacement switch disconnected; it’ll look right – it just won’t do anything. I figure if I can ever find a correct switch, I’ll install it at that point. The good news is I have the components ordered to get the cigarette lighter working again! So it’s just that defroster switch and the clock to go…

      • My mechanical engineering buddy at work was also a motor head, a smarty with mechanical aptitude. He knew about the workings of your mechanical clock. If all parts intact, the culprit is the original lube has dried to the point the “click & wind” function is stuck. If I recall, the electric 12v connection fires a momentary solenoid that “winds up” the mechanism, winds itself down makes contact in a repeating cycle – until the lube dries out. I got a synthetic clock lube off EBay years ago for a grandfather clock, haven’t touched it again in 7 years.

        So, clean carefully and lube sparingly with a lightweight syn. clock lube see if it comes back to life (watch you don’t affect the clock face with cleaner or lube)

  3. I feel your pain with searching for obsolete parts. Regarding your switch issue, I’ve found that sometimes a factory manual will show the power flow through switches and modules. By comparing your missing ’76 switch to your ’77 switch you can find out if you can create a set of patch cables to do this.

    Good luck and don’t let out the magic smoke. 🙂

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