There are some old cars – sometimes – that seem to care about you. They break down in convenient places. Or they let you know they’re going to break down before they do. It’s as close to a religious experience as I have ever had – and I had another one, just the other day.
It was the day after I had to take apart, clean out, re-assemble and re-install the carburetor that sits atop the 455 V8 that sits under the hood of the Orange Barchetta, my 1976 Pontiac Trans-Am. Because I treated her like a cheap date, giving her crap gas to drink and then leaving her alone for nearly two months.
I have owned the TA for God-almighty 30-something years now, which is longer (by far) than most couples stay married. Sometimes, I take her for granted. But she has always been good to me over all these years, nevertheless. And she just was, again.
I’d left her alone for almost two months of garage-sit neglect, with a tankful of ethanol-laced “gas” that had soured. When I tried to fire her up to take her out after all that sitting, she wasn’t ready. I got her started – but the engine coughed and sputtered like a geezing old lady hooked up to a CPAP machine. I knew why. It was bad “gas” that was both old and 10 percent ethanol – but I thought maybe I could clear the carb by mashing the gas pedal. All this did was cause great clouds of smoke to billow from the twin splitters out back and I gave up after a few minutes of futile trying. I shut her down and proceeded to unbolt the carb and then take it apart and clean it – a job I can do almost blindfolded because when you have done it so many times, over so many years, it’s as easy as opening the ‘fridge to get another beer.
All cleaned up and then back on top of the 455.
A few minutes later – all the time it takes to reconnect the throttle cable, fuel line and a few vacuum hoses – and the Orange Barchetta was ready for a penance drive the 12 miles into town, where there is a station that sells gasoline that isn’t 10 percent ethanol. I usually put nothing other in the TA’s tank, to avoid the problems that inevitably arise as a consequence of putting 90 percent gas and 10 percent ethanol in the tank of a 50-year-old car that was not designed to deal with alcohol-laced fuels that also sits idle for weeks and sometimes – mea culpa – months at a time. But the station is 12 miles down the road and so it’s about 25 miles there and back and that takes about 45 minutes to an hour by the time all is said and done and every now and then I just don’t have the time and – instead – get the “gas” that’s available just five minutes down the road from me.
And end up having to take the carb apart and clean it again. You’d think I’d have learned something after all these years but that’s for men who are smarter than me.
Well, anyhow, I got it all put back together – and the 455 started right up, no gurgling or coughing and no clouds of smoke emanating. So I backed her up out of the garage and got ready to drive the 12 miles into town to get the tank filled with gas – and purge out the remaining not-quite-entirely gas that was still sloshing around inside the tank. But I realized I’d left something on my work bench, so I got out and went to go get it. And that’s when I saw it.
A stubby little bolt on the garage floor. As soon as I saw it, I knew what it was – for the same basic reason some couples who’ve been together for decades know each other’s thoughts before either of them say anything. I had installed that bolt, a long time ago. It was a torque converter bolt – one of three that secure the torque converter to the flywheel. And that meant that – at best – there were only two still holding the converter to the flywheel.
Back into the garage the TA rolled. More finely, onto the lift – and up she went. And I soon ascertained I was right. It was one of the three torque converter bolts that had worked its way loose – and fallen off. Right on the floor of the garage, where I would see it. As opposed to while i was driving it.
All I had to do was to re-install the bolt, an easy-peasy job that involves rotating the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the flywheel/torque converter until the pad on the converter where the torque converter bolt goes can be easily seen and reached and then thread and tighten the bolt (with Loctite, of course).
It would not have been so easy-peasy had the bolt worked loose and fallen off while I was driving into town. Especially if the other two had done the same. I’d have had to get the TA towed home so I get under it and fix it. But I didn’t have to do that because she spit that bolt right there on the garage floor, where I’d be sure to see it before I drove far away from my lift, tools and garage.
A miracle, surely.
. . .
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Us Harley owners keep Locktite in business! Even the new Harleys. And, to stay in spec with the genuine Harley service manual there are versions of Locktite I’ve had to order. Reds and blues, there are more than one version per color.
Hi Sparkey,
Yup! Machines that shake tend to rattle and things tend to come undone! I used Loctite on those bolts but that was 20 years ago and so there you go!
As a former “Hardly Abelson” owner, I got rid of mine after I learned, the hard way, that the “HD” actually stood for “Hundred Dollars”, cuz that’s where the starting price for anything for related to repairs, improvement, or the like!!
YMMV…..
I Rover sat while the kids were overseas, Defender 110 V8 with a conversion to Edlebrock manifold and carb. Including a firewall mounted fuel pressure regulator. Hour long joy ride all is well. A block from home I smell raw gas. Parked at home, there is gas spewing from the regulator I’m damn lucky the thing didn’t torch off.
It will happen again dummy, why do you think it fell out in the first place?!?!
All you had to do was use some permatex threadlocker gel red on it!!!! Flywheel bolts (or your equivalent here) are one of the things this is verbotten to not use threadlocker. On the threads or in the hole if it’s blind, and you don’t have to use a lot either! Go to school to be a mechanic and you’ll know this.
Hi Steve,
I did use threadlocker! I think the bolt came loose during the ordeal of trying to clear the carb with the gas pedal..
Eric,
Based on what happened, and your picture, it doesn’t appear to have been enough.
Flywheel bolts definitely use red locker, and if I have to do them again I’ll learn from this experience and use maybe a bit more than the permatex rep said to use the stuff (one swipe).
Makes since, since ARP bolts for this sort of thing regularly come “coated” with threadlocker.
I guess the lesson here is don’t skimp on the locker when it comes to flywheel (or flexplate/TC) bolts.
Also sounds like you performed the test for loose flywheel bolts with what you did with the carb.
If the bolts were loose, it makes a large cracking sound (depending on how loose) when snaping the throttle like that. I bet the Orange Barchetta is pretty loud by the look of it, might not have been listening for the sound or it may not have even occured, it’s really more of a maybe, but sounds like you preformed the test alright and it left you a bolt. Sounds like love to me, gotta love old cars, as opposed to soulless devices. Cheers!
Hi Steve,
Yup. The TA is a special case in that the engine is not stock. The idle is normally choppy and the exhaust is loud – so it’s hard to hear little background sounds that might be more obvious emanating from a stock engine. When I installed the transmission about 20 years ago, I used Locite as specified but I suspect that 20 years of shaking and vibrating did their work. I plan to convert the TA to a manual (Super T-10) stock set-up and have most of the small parts but still need to save up for the big parts, especially the T-10. My friends nag me about that and say I ought to go with a Tremec five or six speed. Not for me. I want to replicate the stock feel/sound appearance of a factory ’76 four speed car. I realize it will be spinning fast at highway speeds but I don’t care as the car never goes on the highway anymore. I just cruise around the neighborhood, mostly.
Love it or hate it, Google AI responses have definitely helped me with auto repair since they started giving good AI a couple months back! That and torque specs with big grains of salt.
—————–
I searched “how to test for loose flywheel bolts snap throttle sound test”
and got this:
—————–
To test for loose flywheel bolts in relation to a “snap throttle sound,” you can perform the following:
Listen carefully: A “snap throttle sound” can be described as a rattling, clanking, knocking, or even a clicking sound, especially noticeable during acceleration. A loose flywheel can produce these types of noises due to vibrations.
Observe for vibrations:
Clutch pedal vibrations: If the clutch pedal vibrates when engaged or disengaged, this could indicate a failing flywheel.
Engine vibrations: A worn or loose flywheel may not effectively dampen engine vibrations, causing noticeable shudder, particularly during idling or shifting.
Check for issues with clutch engagement: If you experience difficulty changing gears or hear grinding sounds during shifts, this may be a sign of a damaged flywheel.
Consider other symptoms: Loose flywheel bolts can manifest in other ways, such as:
Clutch vibrations
Difficulty starting or inconsistent starts
Engine stalling
Burning smell from the clutch
Gear slippage
Loss of power
Important Notes:
Loose flywheel bolts can cause a loud, clanging sound that would be immediately noticeable.
A “snap throttle sound” can also stem from other sources, such as worn CV joints, exhaust leaks, or engine problems like faulty valves or lifters.
If you suspect loose flywheel bolts, it’s crucial to consult with a qualified mechanic for proper diagnosis and repair. Ignoring the issue could lead to further damage and safety risks.
It’s highly recommended to have an experienced, certified mechanic install or re-torque flywheel bolts. Flywheel bolts typically require specific torque specifications and tightening procedures. Incorrect installation can cause serious problems
Eric (Or other gentlemen of vast automotive knowledge),
I’ll probably work on my stepson’s truck (1998 Chevy truck with 350 engine) this summer, and it has what is likely an electronics problem, possibly mediated by what was called a “passkey” system. Maybe not. I’ll investigate that angle.
Nevertheless, it doesn’t now start, and I’m thinking one possible solution is just to remove the electromechanical poppycock and put on a carburetor and the associated hardware. One problem I hear there might be, however, is the automatic transmission, which receives commands from the truck’s computer in reference to certain sensor inputs.
Does anyone have a good, reliable source of information or instruction for this sort of reverse retrofit? Any help is appreciated.
Also Eric, Hallelujah regarding the luck with your TA. From my youth I’ve heard that if your take care of your vehicles, they will take care of you. Mine are in a state of neglect, unfortunately, and that must be remedied.
Was driving my 1997 Suburban through the Black Hills, all of a sudden, it stopped, the engine wouldn’t start, was stuck in the middle of nowhere.
A bar a few hundred yards away provided refuge along with a beer.
Made a phone call for a vehicle hauler to pick up the dead Suburban.
If I hadn’t been on an uphill grade, no brakes, no steering, nothing, it was lucky to stop instead of careening downhill with no control. It’ll be bad.
The engine needed a new spider, the old conked out, you have no power at all.
It was a 2600 dollar bill to fix the mess. Three days at the dealership to repair the problem, you’re back on the road.
The spider might be bad on the 1998 350.
Eight cylinders depend upon a functioning spider.
Thanks, Drumph.
My stepson already replaced the spider and put in the upgraded injectors, though I’m not sure how far he went with the fuel system.
Always a relief to break down next to a bar, however.
The main thing to look for is the throttle position sensor which feeds to the PCM (the engine and trans computer). That 98 will have a Vortec 350 and 4L60E trans, both pretty good units.
Don’t tow with the 4L60E in overdrive, it WILL kill the OD. The injection has an odd spider injector inside the plastic manifold, but it can be updated with a better newer one just by bolting it in.
I’d suggest not going the carb route, injection isnt that complicated, that truck is great as is, bone stock. Take some time and patience and troubleshoot it. Check fuel pressure first, low or no means filter or in tank pump. If you have fuel pressure look at cam and crank sensors, I think the 98 has those.
Thanks for all of that, Ernie.
All noted!
BaDbOn
Better off to do a trans swap to a purely mechanical old school trans. Easier said than done.
98’s had electronically controlled trans. Once you eliminate the interface between the engine ECU and the trans ECU you’re on your own.
Alternatively troubleshoot and fix the system. There are lots of different failure modes for GM passlock VATS – see YouTube & other info online. Honestly I’d recommend this vs an engine / trans swap.
Thanks, Burn It!
I’m cool with the electrical/electronics work. The kid, not quite as much. I’ll definitely try that before a whole engine/trans debacle.
Hi BaDnOn!
Ok, as you know, this is a matter of trouble shooting. The first thing I’d check would be voltage; some EFI systems will not work if the voltage is below a certain value. The next thing is the fuel pump and then the filter; being as this is a ’98 the pump could be bad and the filter could be clogged. Does the engine crank, by the way? If it does, check for spark at all eight plugs; check the distributor next if the spark is not there and blue-white.
The ’98 ought to have just a 12V hot wire for the lock-up converter and that’s what I’d check next.
Hey Eric,
The engine cranks, yes. It even seems to kick over for a split second from what I hear. A lot of attempted troubleshooting so far has been over the phone, but I’m about to have this truck on my land.
I’ve yet to verify fuel pressure myself, but I think the kid did change the pump and filter. I’ll certainly check the voltage and take a gander at the spark performance as well.
I’ve no experience with a lock-up converter. If that were to still be locked, it wouldn’t turn over without moving the truck, correct?
From his Youtube research, I believe he determined there was no signal voltage to the passkey. I image that’s at least one problem. Like I told Burn It, I’ll start with that before anything drastic, but I like to know I have options. 😉
He could’ve sold/ditched this truck, but it’s a 4×4 and long bed, so I advised him to not dare that.
One first step is to verify spark. This can be done with a spark tester, or I prefer a timing light. If it has an external coil, it can be placed on the coil wire to verify if the coil is firing, then on the #1 spark plug to verify it’s getting thru the distributor.
Verify that the fuel injectors are triggering. This is easy to misinterpret by feel, so borrow NOID lights from the auto parts store.
Quick and easy and cheap to check the distributor cap/rotor. You can hook them up to the #1(and check#2 on the left)injector harness (probablly using the BOSCH-II light bulb, use the one that matches). When it cranks, verify that the light bulb flashes.
If these checks pass, then the problem is probablly not the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Both need to work for the Vortec 5.7L sequential fuel injection on it.
Also check by listening for if the fuel pump runs when you turn the key to on.
If it’s a weak fuel pump, you may try turning the key to on cycling it back off and on several times. If it wants to start / caughs better when you do this, it could be the fuel pump, or maybe the pump is not running after it starts cranking after a few seconds – that would be caused by the OPSU oil pressure sending unit. Check the oil pressure gauge for erratic behavior while cranking – if it thinks theres no pressure after a few seconds, it will shut off the fuel pump.
The truck probably has a 4L60E or 4L80E trans in it now. For what you want to do, you’d have to go back to a 700R4 transmission that’s hydraulic only. Anyone feel free to correct me if I’m wrong.
The proper thing to do is just fix why it won’t start. Could very well be the passkey system, or a host of other things. Consult a mechanic, or a forum for the truck. This isn’t really one of those forums, obviously.
Back in the 1992 and earlier computerized GM’s, it was always the damn module in the distributor, like 50% of the time.
Steve,
I might remember that. Would an ’82 Malibu Classic qualify?
I was venting how much a pain in the ass it is to diagnose a crank/no-start condition on later ones, with parts like these
ACCEL Ignition Control Module – 35370
I wouldn’t put it past an 82 Malibu classic to have the same problems with the different part # module 35361
I was remoniscing how often it’s the module in the distributor, when you turn the key, and the engine will crank all day but still not fire.
———————–
Message recieved I guess I shouldn’t knock you for asking, it’s Eric’s place after all.
From what I can tell, a 1998 chevy truck uses PassLOCK instead of PassKEY, so BaDnOn, disregard this first part, and skip to the end for the PASSLOCK stuff. I would only assume your problem has to do with the key if the battery was out or your son got a new key, or less likely a module was relplaced or new ignition switch. This is only going to apply in cases where you turn the ignition switch with your key, and it’s like the engine isn’t being “allowed” to crank the engine. The lights will flash, but it’s a no-crank.
———————-
I’ve read up on PASSKEY issues for my 91′ Camaro before.
A short history lesson:
On that the 2 small orange wires going to the ignition switch were taped up from the factory with yellow tape, and hidden to look like it had to do with the airbags, so to dissuade people from disconnecting the connector and hooking their own ignition switch to easily steal the car.
But basically with PASSKEY (VATS) you get 10 or 15 different resistance values, and your ignition key has a resistor pellet with the correct ohms.
The car will only start by turning the key, but it won’t crank unless this circuit is completed with a resistor molded on the key that is matched correctly to the correct value.
More from google:
A GM PassKey system, also known as VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System), uses a resistor pellet in the key to verify the key’s identity. There are 15 different resistance values, numbered 1 through 15, used in the original system. The number one key has the lowest resistance, and the number fifteen key has the highest. Due to issues with the lowest resistance value, the number one key was discontinued on newer vehicles. Later versions of the system, like PassKey II, PassKey III, and PassLock, used variations or different technologies.
Here’s a chart showing the approximate resistance values for each key number (approximate as it can vary slightly):
Key Number
Resistance (Ohms)
1
Discontinued (very low)
2
1500
3
2700
4
3900
5
6800
6
5100
7
8200
8
10000
9
12000
10
15000
11
18000
12
22000
13
27000
14
33000
15
39000
To determine the resistance of a key:
Use a volt-ohm meter or a VATS interrogator device.
Place the meter probes across the resistor pellet on the key.
Match the measured resistance to the chart above to determine the corresponding key number.
_____________________________
So Bandon,
A 1998 Chevy truck uses a PassLOCK I system
. This system is a type of anti-theft system that replaced the earlier VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) used by GM.
How Passlock I works:
It uses a magnet in the ignition lock cylinder and a corresponding sensor.
When the correct key is inserted and turned, the sensor detects the magnet and sends a signal to the vehicle’s computer.
If the correct signal is received, the engine is allowed to start.
If the security feature is activated, reset the Passlock:
Insert the registered key into the ignition.
Attempt to start the engine (it won’t start).
Turn the key to the “Run” position.
The security light will flash, and after 10-15 minutes, it will stop flashing and remain on.
Turn the key to the “Crank” position and start the engine.
Note: The Passlock module is located in the ignition cylinder housing. If the module is replaced, it’s recommended to perform a system relearn procedure:
To perform a GM Passlock system relearn on a 1998 Chevy truck, insert the key, turn it to the “ON” position (without starting), and wait for the security light to turn off (approximately 10 minutes). Repeat this process two more times, then attempt to start the truck. If the vehicle starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete.
Here’s a more detailed breakdown:
Prepare the vehicle: Ensure all doors are closed and the parking brake is engaged.
Insert the key: Insert the ignition key into the ignition cylinder.
Turn to the ON position: Turn the key to the “ON” position (without starting the engine).
Observe the security light: The security light should illuminate.
Wait: Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.
Turn to OFF: Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position and wait for 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 3-6: Repeat steps 3 through 6 two more times.
Attempt to start: Turn the key to the “START” position and attempt to start the engine.
Check for starting: If the truck starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete.
If the vehicle does not start after the relearn procedure:
Ensure all doors are closed and the parking brake is engaged.
Make sure the battery is adequately charged.
Repeat the relearn procedure again.
If the problem persists, consult a mechanic or dealership.
This video demonstrates how to fix a Passlock system on a 1998 Chevy Silverado:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OreViQH38M&t=118s
————————-
I can’t believe googuhl reccomended such a non professional video, however it tracks. I would start by doing the learn procedure, and if it doesn’t work, you may have an issue with the module like the guy in the video.
Your post was vague, and if you’re whimsically thinking about replacing the engine/trans with an uncomputerized setup, it’s more than likely completely illegal in our police state, banishing your sons truck to being an antique only.
I sugguest just fixing the thing, and without knowing more, I can’t really help you on that.
Figure out if it’ll crank. If the engine starts spinning than it’s NOT the PASSLOCK (NOT PASSKEY/VATS like my 91 camaro).
If it does crank, but won’t start or fire at all, then it could be a bunch of things. I miss the days when just any chevy dealer would print you a diagnostic flow chart. Maybe find a shop that has ALL-DATA and get a diagnostic flow chart from them for your specific application.
In general it’s check for
/fuel(do you hear pump run on key on?)
/spark(timing light on cyl#1/coil wire if external coil – does it flash when engine is cranking?)
/air.
fuel spark and air to make it run, once it’s cranking.
There Eric, that’s why I sugguested keeping this on a forum instead of a news/comments section, but if it helps one person it was worth it.
how to cheat the passlock maybe:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRS6py8pyZs
won’t help if the module is the problem.
Hey Steve,
Thanks much for all the input! I really appreciate it. The truck is here now, so I’ll begin messing with it this week, hopefully.
Hi Steve,
I’m pretty sure the 700R4 has a lock-up converter, too – and the 12V connection and internals in the valve body. I have a 2004R in my TA and it’s got them, also. BaDnOn might be able to bypass the Passkey stuff but I don’t know how to do that. Someone here might!
Bypass passlock:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRS6py8pyZs
Reminds me of the time I was crossing the Grand Canyon, actually Marble Canyon a little north-east, on a long bridge over the canyon when I heard a thump, thump, thump from the front wheel of my Dodge 1 ton crew cab carrying a Winnebago slide-in camper. Halfway across the thumping got really bad and then worse and just off the end of the bridge was a gravel parking lot I barely turned into and Boom the front wheel fell over.
Wheel bearing went out and galled the race to the spindle. I fired up the generator and used a grinder to get it off. Now, I’m in the middle of nowhere with nobody around, it’s morning in Arizona and getting hot. I looked around and started walking. I saw a small private airstrip off the highway and saw a guy untying his small Cessna. I’m a pilot so I asked where he was going and if I could catch a ride to Page which was 100 miles or more by road and about 10-20 miles by plane. He said ok, I gave him $20 for gas and we flew just above the miles of flat topped desert hills into Page where I bought a bearing at the Napa store.
He got done and we flew back and landed. Didn’t take more than an hour or two. I slapped the new bearing on before it even got hot and away I went. Very cool and lucky. It was a D200, and I had swapped out the poochy 305? with a 440 star magnum I pulled from a 1960 Crown Imperial that I found out in the desert north of Nogales. One bad ass engine. Could climb a mountain with camper, pulling a trailer, gaining speed all the way up.
My Datsun 2000 has a 17mm bolt that holds the carburetor T to the float bowl body. Every blue moon it works its way loose and I have fuel leak onto the exhaust manifold sheet metal deflector (designed by Datsun to keep leaking fuel off the exhaust manifold). If you don’t catch it, this can be a really bad day. My start up ritual is to inspect that area every time I run the car. It hadn’t leaked for 2 years until Wednesday last week. Quick snug up on the bold and good to go.
If you know your old gal and give her what she needs, she will appreciate you. Her name is Audry.
Hope you bought a lottery ticket once you made it to town
Looking at the torque converter bolt in the picture it appears to have at least one damaged thread, hopefully it is better than it looks but you know what I mean.
As for treating your car wrong when you loaded her up on ethanol, depending on where you live that might be all you can get. E-10 will generally work, the problem is when it sits for longer terms as in say for winter. An ultrasonic parts cleaner can help get the ethanol gel out of the carb but the corrosion from the water is generally fixed only by replacing the carb.
Luckily you had no lasting issues so treat her right by driving her more often.
Hi Landru,
Yup – the thread was damaged; new bolt installed. To answer Jim’s question, the TA never goes out in weather so that’s why the cover’s not on.
We watched “Anyone But You” last night. I wasn’t buying the gay couple.
Their marriage, featured in the movie, a lesbian destination dream wedding in Australia, would have been over by the time the return flight touched down in Chicago.
The filmmakers did have some interesting cars, however, as well as a huge boat and two helicopter rescues which probably emitted a lot of CO2.
“Torque converter” bolt, Kemo sabe? What is this mysterious “torque converter” thing you speak of?
My vehicles have pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts….
Likewise, I’m taken aback by photo 2 above. In every vehicle I’ve had, the flywheel would be behind a cover, so that a loose bolt could not fall to the ground. Is it really exposed like that? What lubricates the starter pinion and the flywheel teeth?
We transferred the title of my parent’s 2016 minivan over this week. It had been sitting for at least a year with a full tank of E-10. I wasn’t too concerned because the 3.6 Pentastar engine will run on E-85 but still there’s probably a lot of water in the tank, and alcohol separation too.
So first thing (actually first thing was to overnight charge the battery) was to toss in a bottle of Stabilizer then run the tank down. Then fuel injector cleaner and a fill-up with pure gas. Hopefully that will dilute anything that’s accumulated over the last few years (it didn’t get driven much before it sat for a year either).
Even with year-old gas the thing has a lot of pep. Once the transmission kicks down the hills of Western PA aren’t an issue. More than once I’ve chirped the tires pulling out into traffic. While I’ll still have more fun driving my Cherokee (which has the same engine IIRC), this will make a very nice weekend camper.
I asked grok:
“does ethanol in gasoline cause it to go bad quicker?
Yes, ethanol in gasoline can cause it to go bad quicker. Ethanol is hygroscopic substance, meaning it attracts and absorbs water from the air. This can lead to water contamination in the fuel, which promotes microbial growth and corrosion in fuel systems. Additionally, ethanol can break down faster than pure gasoline, forming gums and varnishes that clog engine components. Typically, ethanol-blended gasoline (like E10) has a shelf life of about 3-6 months under optimal storage conditions, compared to 6-12 months for ethanol-free gasoline. Proper storage (sealed containers, cool temperatures) can mitigate degradation.”
This is another major advantage of diesel fuel. Not only is it not explosive, you can store it for years.
Could it be that the push to ethanol blends was partially about reducing the shelf life of gasoline in order to force people to EV and battery powered toys/tools like quads/chainsaws?
The Lord works in mysterious ways, Eric. He’s calling to you.